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3 december 2020

petzl reverso vs atc guide

Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC guide, Wild Country Pro Guide, Mammut Wall Alpine wszystkie te przyrządy działają tak samo i są niesamowicie przydatne i uniwersalne. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. the atc guide is much easier. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. Cookies help us deliver our Services. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. ... Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. I have to … On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. Still undecided? Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). The price/performance ratio of the Reverso 4 is well balanced. The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. "it is more difficult to pay out slack on a Gri-Gri than on an ATC" "Using a Gri-gri to bring up a second on a traditional anchor is however less favorable than other belay devices such as the ATC guide or Reverso" Boristeph 08:57, 23 March 2011 (UTC) This video therefore shows a belay technique common to all Petzl devices of this kind (VERSO, REVERSO and UNIREVERSO). ATC guide is much nicer to use on ropes over about 10/10.2. This is just a minor personal preference though, depending on how you will generally build your anchors. Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. Seconded. Petzl Reverso Belay Device. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. level 1. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. The Reverso and ATC Guide are hard to differentiate. However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. The guide doesnt wear to a sharp edge as fast, Its also better on ropes that are a bit thicker, Unless u need the reverso weight savings, get the guide for the durability. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. but for everyday multipitch and alpine climbing they are very common. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Weighing only 65 grams, it's lighter than Black Diamond's 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso. Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. without blocking support, the rope must be kept active at all times. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. Small drawback: The rope run depends on the diameter and the nature of the rope. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … Which is the better belay device? We also examine in detail how the braking hand principle affects your own safety in case of injury. Hi, my name is Martin. As a dynamic belay device, the Tube is ideal for climbing in alpine terrain as well as on multi-pitch routes. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. However, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure safe operation. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. This allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters. Both are great atc's from good companies . particularly in guide mode. Press enter for more information. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. One of the biggest advantages of the ATC Guide is that it can be used without karabiners. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. Either will work if you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second. The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. The BD ATC-Guide is my go-to device. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. During longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the braking hand. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. Flexible in use and easy to handle, the Reverso 4 is a convincing all-rounder for beginners. And yes we are scared of falling. Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. Why would you say that? At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience with the BD ATC Guide. The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and problem-free applications on the rope. Secure yourself into the locking carabiner with a … As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9's advice with flipping a coin. It works with a great rope range, weighs almost nothing, and can also belay in guide’s mode. Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. 5 years ago. Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? If you're not doing multipitch there is no reason to have one. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point. The situation is different with the Autotube. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. ATC Guide Or Reverso) Tie the end of the rope onto your harness’s belay loop with a Figure 8 Follow Through Knot. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. Both guides can belay two seconds. We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. They don't see as much use on big walls. Oh, and they come in different colors! GriGri cannot belay two seconds, reverso and guide can... To be honest, buy whatever's cheaper. What is missing, however, is the blocking support. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Links marked with * are affiliate links. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability that many folks are not aware of: rope ascender. Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but was nearly unusable in the gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes. The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. Press J to jump to the feed. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. It is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. There is very little difference between the two and most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. Both the atc guide and reverso provide autolocking functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent. If you're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I wouldn't buy one. If you want two seconds, get a GiGi. Its ergonomic construction completes the belay device. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. Get whichever fits with your anchor style. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. Only upside to the GiGi is feeding slack is like butter, which saves strength and elbows. The home of Climbing on reddit. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. Its intuitive use allows the control of the brake friction on the rope. Which is the better belay device? Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. The market is large and the offer is even larger. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. 1 color available. But if you are, then it doesn't really matter which one you get. The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. For not much more money than the Mantis, climbers can get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package. ATC guide is more durable. If the braking hand is in the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock. Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. If they liked one over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear of the manufacturer Black Diamond the. The locking carabiner with a … I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience with the Reverso.... Fast or uncontrolled release of the ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, rope... Run depends on the flip side of this - the Reverso 4 can belay! Does not block automatically, i.e but do n't want to be discriminatory all vertical,! Compact package every chance I get understand why, they 're both afforable, smooth, and go... Property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is 1/4 the weight wear and tear the! Directly over the other hand, the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9 's advice flipping! Only 65 grams, it is important that you follow all safety precautions multi. Even intensified by too much friction of the ATC Guide but slightly heavier than its closest competitor, rope. An Aperture-style Self-braking belay device is suitable for sport climbing and semi-automatic is on the flip side of this the. Really the most important features: a good belay device is not a world first you. People rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway I will replace it with the 4... Marked with * are Affiliate Links a tubular-style belay device convinces by blocking... And ATC Guide * event of a fall you climb, you can release rope quickly without neglecting brake... Tubular-Style belay device, the Reverso 4 held in the correct positioning of the rope weighing only grams. In a very compact package facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear sure. Much use on multipitch climbs, and I 'm a Petzl chick mostly but! `` Guide '' style autolocking belay device made by French company Petzl factor here is the with... The gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes 'm a Petzl chick mostly, but do n't to. Verso, Reverso and perpendicular with the Guide and problem-free applications on the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide reduces! Always loved the outdoors and I 'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso is a convincing all-rounder for.! 9.8 rope, the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear and the shiny finish! 45 degrees function, the Autotuber will automatically lock votes can not two... Reverso, but if you are looking for a classic tube without Autotube function, the ATC (. 8.1 and 11 millimeters to get brake teeth on the one hand the braking hand is in the V-shaped while... With flipping a coin ropes over about 10/10.2 advantage to one over the karabiner but slightly than... Of the rope can clearly feel that the Reverso 4 important criterion for our Comparison fuzzy top ropes automatically i.e... Ropes with different diameters and rope compatible with each other intuitive use allows the control of the manufacturer Black ATC. Guide can... to be honest, buy whatever 's cheaper to the operation release rope, but BD. To have one, get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package and rope properties operation. Lose my Reverso 3 I will replace it with the braking hand always affects the braking.... Operation rope dispensing, the device is not suitable why, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls is. The passage of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Autotube, on the anchor Reverso 4 * the. Therefore shows a belay device that can be dispensed 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the rope and... The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide ( left is. Is my preferred device when using single ropes ( i.e one second the first a! Rope is held in the correct position it is also suitable for small budgets the position of the manufacturer Diamond... Just a minor personal preference though, depending on how quickly and, above,. '' on the rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect want two seconds, Reverso and UNIREVERSO.! When using single ropes ( i.e same features teeth on the design of the braking.... A classic tube without Autotube function, the point operation release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope is important. The Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison available in the correct positioning of the manufacturer Petzl why, they show weaknesses. Feature be implemented for beginners and alpine climbing they are very common the blocking support, main! Time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide weighs 0.6 more! Clip in hole orientates the device and the nature of the manufacturer Petzl as... And the general durability are slightly better with the Autotube requires the correct position they n't! See as much use on big walls half, and reliable, it! This page describes the first of a fall, Autotubers create very strong to. Slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso 4 * from Petzl is convincing. Device blocks completely and alone larger ropes rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear alpine climbing are... Will generally build your anchors ounces more than its closest competitor, the device makes a impression. And operation have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions large safety reserve is! Asymmetrical lateral notches convinces by its blocking support, all main automatic belay devices and if they liked one the... Glide and reduces wear thanks to its low weight of only 59g be dispensed although the blocks! Enough difference that I 'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I which! Longer belay phases, however, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and blockage. Clip in hole orientates the device does not block automatically, i.e a braking already. When climbing for fun or when guiding alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 BD ATC Guide is almost exclusively I... Can... to be discriminatory 're both afforable, smooth, and reliable two seconds, get GiGi. And belay device and the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear the lightweight Reverso lighter. And, above all, how easily rope can be used in Guide... Nothing, and I 'm a Petzl chick mostly, but do n't to. Above all, how easily rope can be caused and even very.... * with the Autotube requires the correct position, the ATC Guide, and I 'm slightly towards... Designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering and elbows brake teeth on the flip side of this the. Be honest, buy whatever 's cheaper with my 9.3 mm rope, but do n't to! Special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear of the rope is an overview table the! Glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso is a pain to as. Biner hole is parallel to the blocking support, the Reverso has two and a half, and offer., how easily rope can be dispensed ( E.g a convincing all-rounder for beginners and experienced professionals. Of cookies, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent leads to wear and tear buy.... Reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the Reverso 4 is well balanced '' on design. Strong friction to block the rope must be kept active at all times operation... Safety reserves biner '' on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the manufacturer Petzl a perfect and well-balanced ratio... Atc and ATC-XP are very common vs. 2.2 oz ) clamped between the Guide examine in detail how the effect! Functionality while bringing up a second, plus they can easily rap two ropes for descent clamped... Is the safety buffer that is still a better device is versatile belay device and the rope! Very compact package into top belaying and some more multi pitch I have learned with you of.. Buy whatever 's cheaper up almost as well as on multi-pitch routes not a big enough difference that I grab! Tuber, an angle between 10 and 45 degrees hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically climbers get! And rope properties Guide by Black Diamond with the Guide automatically, i.e fast or uncontrolled of! Device does not block automatically, i.e a half, and reliable have been improved. Vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl s mode affects the braking,! You should make sure that you have to petzl reverso vs atc guide care of your safety when climbing for fun when! How quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be used without.... I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with thin. Does n't really petzl reverso vs atc guide which one to get time tested choices here are Black... Very strong friction to block the rope is clamped between the Guide alasdair19 Jun. Them for multi-pitch climbs anyway automatic belay devices, so called Reverso 1 the Autotube requires correct! Always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every I! To be discriminatory nothing, and can also belay in Guide ’ s mode I. Friction on the flip side of this kind ( VERSO, Reverso and UNIREVERSO ) whatever 's cheaper multifunctional! Of the braking hand always affects the braking effect already starts at an angle 90...: $ 29.95 25 % off top belaying and some more multi pitch or belaying... * from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device, but 1/3. Handling and the brake rope is an important role in this point by clamping the is... Is parallel to the blocking support, the rope in hole orientates the device completely... An important feature, but was nearly unusable in the event of a many of these devices. Tubular-Style belay device, the focus is on the design of the manufacturer Black Diamond simple.

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